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Blog - Page 9 of 21 - San Diego Cable Railings

Power Washing Stainless Steel Cable Railings?

How to Properly Clean and Maintain Your Cable Railings It is absolutely OK and also a recommended practice to perform periodic maintenance and cleaning of your cable railings. The use of a power washer can make the job easier in some cases; and also keep contamination away. The use of specifically designed cleaning products can also keep your cable railings looking brand new for years to come. Power washing stainless steel cable railings is only one of the ways to keep your deck in tip top shape!  Here are a few other tips and tricks to make cleaning your cable railings easy and effective: Power Washing- Also called “pressure washers” ; power washers are great tools and small units are pretty affordable. There are a few low priced vacuum sized models available at big box stores that have plenty of power to do household cleaning jobs. Power washing requires discretion because of the high pressure involved. Forcing water in to perforations or using too much pressure can damage your railings (especially wood) so use care when operating. We recommend using a wide stream nozzle from a safe distance 1′-2′ and start by cleaning the stainless cables only. Dirt and grime from arial contaminants is easily removed; as is organic build up from nearby plants and shrubs. Once you get the hang of using the machine; the pressure can be dialed up or down and your distance from the object can also be adjusted. Posts and railings as well as decking can also be cleaned with your power washer.  The main idea is to clean without creating any surface damage. Cleaners- The use of specifically designed stainless steel cleaners  can also aid in the cleaning and maintenance of your cable railings. A good stainless cleaner should leave a light film of oil that further prevents contaminant build up and makes future cleanings easier. In a pinch, good old WD- 40 works pretty well when it comes to cleaning stainless steel. The main thing to remember is that contaminants and caustic products can damage stainless steel so ALWAYS use products that are recommended for stainless cleaning. We use and furnish “Steel Renewal” products by Feeney. Ask one of our sales associates if you are interested in these products. Non Recommended Stainless Cleaning Practices- It is never a good idea to use steel wool on stainless steel cables. Steel wool can leave behind traces of metal that will contaminate your cables. Caustic products, acids, and anything that contains etching materials or other metals is not recommended. Stainless steel is super durable and easy to maintain with simple soap and water if you do not have the right cleaner. If you don’t have a power washer then a simple non metallic scotch brite pad will work wonders. The main thing to remember is to do your periodic maintenance and avoid build up; this will make your cleaning project fast and easy. San Diego Cable Railings offers cable railing maintenance packages to local customers looking to keep their railings in brand new condition for the long haul. Talk to one of our cable railing pros at 844-277-7327 or visit the quote request page to find out more about power washing stainless steel cable railings and cable railing maintenance.    

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cable railings, deck railings, San Diego railing contractors

Rooftop Deck Railings

            Things to Consider When Constructing Rooftop Deck Railings Rooftop decks add panoramic views and outdoor living possibilities on the California coast. As decking and railing options have become more sophisticated, these types of decks have gained popularity. Ocean views may even exist where they might not otherwise be possible. Railing installations on roof decks pose a different set of considerations than on grade or ground level decks. Whether you choose a cable railing, glass panel or other railing type; sloped deck railings will require some custom considerations.  So what are the most important things to consider when it comes to constructing rooftop deck railings? How should you mount your railings to a rooftop? Here are the most commonly encountered areas to examine when it comes to rooftop deck railings: Pitch- Almost all roof decks are sloped. The ability to shed water is probably the most important factor on any dry deck space.  The amount of slope the deck requires will depend on the waterproof membrane, size of the deck, and whether or not drains or drip edge are shedding the water. Standard ground level decks are typically built level, which can be an easier railing installation. Rooftop deck railings require pitch adjustments and angles. They can be made to follow the pitch of the roof (angled) and maintain the proper railing height; or they can be modified to maintain a level top rail in order to do this. Choosing to construct a level top rail on a sloped deck will require the rail to grow in the amount equal to the overall slope of the deck. For example : 2″of  slope in 10′ of railing would require the rail to grow from 42″ to 44″ at the sloped edge in order to maintain a level rail.  Aesthetically the level rail option is almost always preferred over a sloped railing. Waterproofing- On new construction projects the waterproofing should be completed and cured prior to the railing installation in most cases. Unless the post bases are to be coated over during waterproofing; it is preferable to install them on a finished surface. Choosing a fascia mounted railing system will prevent the need for perforations in the waterproof deck surface, however this is not always possible to fascia mount your railings. Some homes have rain gutters or undersized fascia that will not allow for fascia mounting. In these cases where surface mounting is the only option; it is important to waterproof any perforations and around the base plates of the railing posts. Additionally, the waterproofing should be inspected annually. Jiffy seal can also be used underneath post bases for extra protection in and around any perforations. Structural Blocking- Structural blocking is needed at all post locations on any deck in which 3″ of structural backing thickness does not already exist (Large beams are often a substitute for blocking). Bolting into plywood sheeting only is not acceptable for the lateral loading required for railing posts. If you are building a new deck or repairing an old deck, it’s important to add blocking at the post locations PRIOR to the new sheeting and waterproofing. If you are doing a DIY install and unsure of where to install this blocking; consult the manufacturer. If you have a professional installer he can install the blocking prior to the waterproofing contractor.  As most rooftop deck framing is NOT exposed from the underneath, blocking the deck after the waterproofing is involved and expensive. If you have questions about rooftop decks or would like an estimate for a deck railing give our pros a call at 844-277-7327 or visit the quote request page.

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Purchasing Grab Rails Online

Pro Tips for Sizing and Installing Grab Rails at Your Home With some accurate measurements and a couple of tricks, installing a grab railing is a great DIY project and a valuable home improvement.  A “grab rail” is a continuous section of handrail used to provide support when ascending and descending a set of stairs. Installing a grab rail can be an attractive and functional addition to your stairs. It will provide a graspable support and a nice design element at a low cost. If you’re looking to install a new grab rail or replace an old one; here are a couple of tips to get you started: Locate your studs– Using a stud finder, magnet or pilot pin, locate the studs on the wall where you plan to install your railing. Purchasing grab rails online could require you to specify the number of brackets needed to support the rail. Installing them directly into wall studs will provide the best connection. A bracket every 32″-48″ should be enough to secure a steel or hardwood grab rail if the brackets are secured to studs. Measure the wall section exactly! –If you plan to purchase a steel or stainless steel grab rail, the return ends will be welded on during fabrication. This means your measurements need to be dead on. Pro tip – measure up from the nose of the top and bottom stair using a plumb line or level and mark the location above each stair (somewhere between 34″-38″ is code required height). Then snap a line on the two marks so you can measure on the exact angle of the grab rail. Use drywall anchors if needed– If you are unable to locate enough studs or the layout does not accommodate your railing section, you can use drywall anchors for extra support. Just mark the hole locations and install the anchors behind the bracket locations. It is not recommended to screw brackets into drywall without a proper anchor. Drywall is not designed to be a structural support. New construction projects with stairs or any permitted stairway remodeling projects will almost always require the installation of a grab rail. Some stairways require installation on both sides of the stairs while others only require a graspable rail on one side only. Sometimes during the home purchase process insurance companies or home inspections will require the installation of graspable railings. San Diego Cable Railings furnishes hardwood, steel and stainless steel grab rails for professional and DIY installations nationwide. We offer standard length sections (8′, 10′, 12′) and custom fabrication for non standard installations. For customers requiring professional installation we also have licensed contractors who specialize in code compliant railing installs. If you have questions about any of our grab rail products or would like a quote for graspable railings; visit the quote request page today! [ec_store modelnumber=”Ipe-Grab-Rail”]

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Understanding Glass Railing Codes

Interpretation of Glass Railing Codes Glass railings allow us to preserve our views while also providing a safe and attractive wind break on exterior decks. Interior uses for glass panels are also numerous when we consider modern stairways, lofts and breezeways often encountered in high end homes. According to some sources glass creation has been around for 4000 years or more and used in architecture for hundreds of years. We know it works well, but todays codes can be hard to understand when it comes to glass panel railings. Included below are some of the more commonly encountered topics about glass railing codes pertaining to railing projects: One of the most popular questions we receive about glass railing codes is “Do I need a top rail on my glass railing?” The answer is Yes and possibly No… According to the ICC (International Code Council) – Guards with structural glass baluster panels shall be installed with an attached top rail or handrail. The top rail or handrail shall be supported by a minimum of three glass baluster panels. Or shall be otherwise supported to remain in place should one glass baluster panel fail. Exception: An attached top rail or handrail is not required where the glass baluster panels are laminated glass with two or more glass plies of equal thickness and of the same glass type. To break this down further : Two sheets of 1/4″ glass that are laminated together are considered to be one @ 1/2″ laminated glass panel. In theory the laminated panel would further prevent breaking and also prevent falling glass from leaving the railing infill. If you use this type of glass you MAY be exempt from using a top rail. ALWAYS check with your local building department. Free Standing Glass Panels and Glass Clip Railing Systems The previously referenced top rail and laminated glass railing codes most commonly pertain to free standing or clipped glass panels. These type of railing systems do not secure the glass with a top rail, thus requiring more stringent requirements that are harder to interpret. The safest way to guarantee that the requirements are met is by discussing the requirements with the local building authority. When it comes to building inspections the field inspector will ultimately have the final say and has likely encountered many glass railing projects. Height and loading requirements for glass railings are very similar to cable railings and other balustrade railing types. In California, a 42″ net height is required for glass barrier railings. Stairs will require handrails between 34″ and 38″ high regardless of design. The lateral loading requirement of  a minimum 200 lbs applied to the top rail at any location also applies to glass railings. Minimum Panel Thickness for Glass Railings The minimum panel thickness associated with most railing systems is 1/4″ thick tempered glass. Does railing glass have to be tempered?-  Yes. Almost all architectural applications call for tempered glass. As far as the minimum thickness call out of 1/4″ glass; thicker glass is becoming more and more common these days. Frameless systems may require thicker glass and/or lamination as stated earlier in this post. 1/4″ glass is commonly seen in full framed glass railings like the photo above. Most tempered glass panels have a stamp, and this visible symbol is often required in order to pass inspection. “Glazing” is the process of using glass (or other panelized materials) as an infill for windows, doors, railing panels etc. For the most part our modern railing codes deal with human impact, structural and/or wind loads associated with glass panels. Much of the published material on code requirements deals with glass thickness and also requirements involved with tempered glass. San Diego Cable Railings furnishes complete glass railing systems. We offer wooden, steel and aluminum framing options for interior and exterior glass applications. Additionally, we are an authorized distributor of Feeney design rail systems. For customers who require a turnkey sales and installation; we have a network of preferred installers specializing in glass railing installation.  If you have questions about glass railing codes or would like an estimate for a glass railing system; please visit the quote request page.    

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The Differences Between Rigging and Railing Hardware

CHOOSING THE RIGHT STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS FOR YOUR PROJECT When we began installing cable railings in the early 2000’s internet shopping was still rather new and so was the retail cable rail industry. Utilizing marine and aviation rigging was often required in order to put together enough parts and pieces to create a cable railing. Actual cable railing systems were hard to come by and all too often we would see people using large commercial eye bolts and turnbuckles. Finishing cable ends used to require crimp eyes and clasps in order to secure fittings in the field. Much of the hardware at this time was bulky and difficult to handle. The utilitarian aspect of cable railings was not in question but it was a challenge to create a “polished” residential style that could appeal to the masses. Cable railing hardware evolved from the marine rigging and aviation industries but it doesn’t need to follow the same aesthetics. These industries require the absolute most durable hardware; period. It has to be strong enough to withstand huge loads all the while being beaten by salt air and UV.  Marine grade stainless steel has performed well for decades and much of the original technology is still used today; however marine rigging needs to be refined for use as railings. Stainless steel fittings used for railings should be attractive and user friendly. “Quick Connect” technology by Feeney showcases these attributes. QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS ARE ATTRACTIVE AND EASY TO INSTALL Quick Connect Fittings allow us to secure cable fittings with no special tools; no crimping or large bulky hardware. New installers or contractors just getting started in to cable railings can achieve professional results with a simple pair of cable cutters. Quick Connect fittings utilize a one way locking mechanism which allows the cable to enter the fitting in one direction and secure itself in the other. The use of a release tool allows the installer to remove the fitting from the cable if necessary. Today’s modern railing systems are more technologically refined and user friendly. A huge selection of fittings are available without the need to special order and our customers have many choices when purchasing stainless steel fittings and hardware. At San Diego Cable Railings we encourage potential customers and new installers to factor the time required as well as the finished product that will result from their hardware choices. High end installations should be sleek and minimize visible hardware. We are no longer bound by old technology or bulky parts.  Our aim is to create aesthetics that do not resemble commercial settings unless that is the intent of the designer.  Our sales and installation team has performed and assisted thousands of cable railing installations for well over a decade now. Our sales staff can cater a parts list to fit the exact needs of our customers. For customers shopping for a turnkey installation we have preferred installers to assist you all the way through the process. If you have questions about which type of cable hardware is right for your install; give us a call at 844-277-7327 or visit the quote request form today.

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Surface Mounted vs. Fascia Mounted Railing Posts

Which type of railing post is best for my installation? This month we spoke to our railing pros about the most common scenarios for each type of railing post in order to help our customers make the best choice for their individual projects. Read ahead to see if surface mounted or fascia mounted railing posts are the best option for your project: What are some of the most common scenarios for selecting a fascia mounted railing post? Smaller decks where space is an issue If your deck surface is uneven and you need the ability to adjust the post up or down If you need to use a standoff plate in order to avoid a drip edge flashing If you need to use a 4 bolt pattern and mounting plate due to minimal backing Fascia Mounted Railing Posts Take Up Less Deck Space Fascia mounted railing posts do not take up any space on top of the deck, where as surface mounted posts can eat up about 6″ of space around the perimeter. This is due to the size and location of the mounting plates utilized by surface mounted posts. Fascia mounted posts are typically less expensive; especially when bolted directly through the tube with 2 bolts vs. using a mounting plate with 4 bolts. When should we choose a surface mounted railing post? Concrete decks almost always call for a surface mounted application Wall top railings; interior pony walls; exterior block and CMU walls Level wooden decks with at least 3″ of backing at the post locations Roof decks with gutters or other obstructions that can prevent fascia mounting Surface Mounted Posts Can Be Easier to Install Despite the need for more bolts on a standard install; surface mounted posts can be easier to install on a level deck scenario. On raised decks they provide the ability to install from the top of the deck vs. using a ladder or leaning over the side of the deck. In most cases the installer will be able to use shorter bolts because the mounting plate makes direct contact with the deck surface. Which type of post mount looks better? Aesthetics are really about personal preference when it comes to choosing a post mounting style. Some people like to see the base plate and mounting hardware, while others prefer to see nothing at all. Many times function is much more important when we are talking about a connection that is imperative to the integrity of the railing itself. If you have questions about which type of post mount is best for your installation, give us a call at 844-277-7327 or visit the quote request page.  

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stainless steel cable railings, cable railing posts, stainless railing posts, cable railing posts, deck railing posts

Choosing Corrosion Resistant Metals

THE BEST MATERIALS FOR EXTERIOR RAILING PROJECTS  From a scientific standpoint resisting corrosion is preventing iron molecules from reacting with oxygen and water resulting in what is commonly called “rust”. Corrosion resistance should be one of the largest deciding factors when we choose an exterior railing system. Oxidizing and corrosion are not one and the same; one is a film vs. a complete degradation of the metal itself.  So what are the best metals to consider when we have harsh environments like sun, salt and water? There are four basic types of metals that fit into what we consider a “corrosion resistant” category: Aluminum is a lightweight and popular choice for the aircraft, car and building materials industries. This metal contains almost no iron; thus resulting in spectacular corrosion resistance. It does however have a potential to oxidize over time, forming a film on the surface. Although the film may not be the desired aesthetic, it does not negatively affect the durability of the metal. Stainless Steel comes in different grades like 18-8, 304 and 316. Each grade of stainless contains a mix of elements. The higher the grade of stainless steel, the lower the amount of iron will be contained in the mix. Chromium, nickel and molybdenum also add to the corrosion resistance. Stainless steel is heavier and stronger than aluminum considering a like for like size comparison. Railing posts made from stainless steel are preferred for constructing stainless steel cable railings because like metals offer the best corrosion resistance. Copper and Brass contain little to no presence of iron in the metals. They do not typically rust but do tend to oxidize and “patina” over time. This actually protects the metal from corrosion but it is a matter of preference when it comes to the aesthetic. Decorative exterior statues and/or garden art pieces, plumbing fixtures and some graspable handrails are fabricated using these metals. We do not see them commonly used for structural purposes like railing posts, support beams, etc. Galvanized Steel is very corrosion resistant when compared to regular mild steel. Galvanizing is a zinc coating applied to steel that prevents oxygen and water from reacting directly with the steel. Galvanized steel works excellent in non salt spray environments , but it will eventually corrode when exposed to marine environments. We see a lot of galvanized material used as guardrails in commercial applications because the cost of galvanized steel is typically lower than stainless and aluminum. San Diego Cable Railings fabricates cable railings and glass railing systems using corrosion resistant metals like galvanized, stainless steel and aluminum. If you are wondering which material is right for your application, or you would like a quote for an extremely corrosion resistant railing system; give us a call or visit the quote request page.  

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code compliant cable railings

How Tight Should My Stainless Steel Cables Be?

Understanding Layout and Specifications for Successful Cable Tensioning Post spans are a key component to understanding tension loads- Understanding cable railing tension is not all about special tools, sphere tests or tension gauges. All of these things are important but cable tension can be as simple as understanding  proper post and cable spacing. Stainless steel cables are “elastic” in nature when compared to a solid steel pipe or vertical picket. Meaning that the cables have the potential to deflect under some weight or applied force; they aren’t designed to be rigid. Deflection is ok; when it comes to code compliance the key is not allowing deflection past a certain point. When it comes to cable railing inspections the clear spacing in between two cables must not deflect to a point that will allow a 4″ sphere to pass through the infill. Tighter post spacing = tighter cables with less effort. Types of posts matter – End posts and corner posts are the most load bearing members involved in a cable railing frame. Think about end posts like an anchor point that is being pulled on. Sturdy posts made from heavy timber, steel or stainless steel will create the strongest anchors. Aluminum frames and undersized wood timbers can function well but they will require tighter spacing to achieve proper tension. Choosing an engineered cable railing system and following the specifications provided by the manufacturer can be one of the easiest ways to ensure success. An “engineered” railing post has been designed and tested to sustain tension loads and provide a solid connection to the deck surface. Different specs for different systems- If we take a close look at the variation in specifications from different manufacturers we will usually find that aluminum railings have more supplementary posts (spreaders or pickets) and that the post members will be spaced closer together. The reason for this is that in most cases the aluminum end posts cannot sustain as much load as the steel or heavy timber end posts; therefore the posts must be spaced tighter to limit deflection. Many times these aluminum railing systems will use a top and bottom rail; limiting the number of cables by adding a solid support. Our favorite aluminum railings for both cable and glass railings are Feeney Design-rail systems. Feeney railings are engineered and proven throughout the industry on large commercial railing projects like apartment buildings and commercial spaces. Engineered railings are the safe choice– As railing installers we focus on following manufacturer recommendations; our job is not to hyper focus on numbers and calculation details that are already tested by the manufacturers. We focus on using proven systems and following the recommended layouts and spacing. Additional efforts are made to use the proper connections and backing requirements. We have passed railing inspections at 150lbs of tension with the right post and cable spacing, as well as solid connections. Too many internet articles about cable tension confuse novice installers and DIYers with framing safety factors and huge numbers like 300 pounds per cable that can encourage people to apply too much tension. Our ultimate goal is achieving just enough tension to prevent a 4″ sphere test; keeping our pets and children safe without damage to the railing system. If you have questions about cable tension or would like a quote on an engineered railing system give us a call at 844-277-7327 or visit the quote request page.      

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California Grab Rail Requirements

I’m remodeling my stairs and adding a new cable railing; do I need a grab rail? The short answer is most likely yes. Graspable rails are necessary in almost every situation involving stairs. The interpretations of the code and requests by different inspectors do make the requirements a bit confusing in some situations. In this article we will summarize the specifications most often reviewed during inspections on our railing projects: Grab Railing Height- Graspable railings are to be set at a height between 34″ and 38″ above the nose of each stair; measured vertically from the nose of the stairs. The measuring tape should not be angled when attempting to confirm this measurement. Stairs should be uniform in size; meaning if the stairs are not consistent that the grab rail height can change. It’s important to measure each stair prior to installing a grab rail; setting the height at a fixed measurement from the top and bottom stair. We find that a set height of 34″- 36″ is comfortable in most situations for most people. Diameter of a Graspable Rail- The minimum outside diameter of a round graspable railing is 1.25″ and the maximum outside diameter is 2″. These size requirements should allow for hands of all different sizes to firmly grasp the railing section. Square or rectangular grab railings can get a bit trickier; the total perimeter dimension of a non-circular member is 4″ minimum and 6.25″ maximum. The translation is basically a square railing that is minimum  1″ to maximum 1.5″ member. There is an allowance for larger members if a finger recess is provided in the railing member to allow for graspability. Wall Spacing and Returns – A minimum 1.5″ space is required between the graspable railing and the wall to allow room for hands to wrap the railing unimpeded by the wall. Grab rail ends should return into the wall at a 90 degree angle.  It’s important not to create a pinch point or leave an open rail that may catch a sleeve with an open end. Interpretation Examples- “I have a 2×4″ top rail at a 36″ height; do I need a grab rail?” The short answer is yes. A standard 2″x4″ timber has a total perimeter dimension of 10″ which exceeds the maximum allowable dimension for a graspable railing. Inspectors often have final discretion when it comes to a completed inspection; meaning there are exceptions and different interpretations of the code; however the safest bet is to reference and stick to the code requirements. If you have questions about grab rail requirements or would like a quote on a graspable railing, please visit the quote request page or give our pros a call at 844-277-7327. We offer pre-fabricated wooden and steel grab railings made to your specifications, as well as turn key installation of these products.

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2019 Deck Construction Costs

Selecting Material Options for Cost Effective Deck Construction Decks can add valuable square footage and increase our living spaces for a much lower cost than adding an extra room. Some decking materials offer little to no maintenance while others provide natural beauty with different price points. Decks are inviting and outdoor living is very popular, but how much do they cost? Here are some deck construction details to consider before building a new deck: –HomeAdvisor’s 2019 national average cost to build a deck is listed at $7229.00 with a typical price range being $4,062- $10,398.00 for residential decks. -Deck construction costs are largely related to size and scope. Large decks (500 square feet and larger) will often carry a lower price per square foot than a small deck. Not a lower overall price; but there should be a gradual decline in cost per square foot as the structure grows. Railing costs will follow suit; the more lineal footage, the lower the cost per lineal foot. -Utilizing standard board lengths will lessen the amount of job waste and additionally save you money. For example: boards come in 8, 10, 12, 16, and 20′ lengths; so designing a 13’x15′ deck requires you to buy 16′ framing and decking timbers. The cutoffs add up, especially when using high end materials like exotic hardwoods and composites. -Standard deck designs like squares and rectangles will save you money when compared to more complex designs. Curved decks, fancy patterns and shapes like octagons are attractive; however they carry a much higher premium than standard shapes. Additionally, these advanced designs will typically give you less useable square footage for a higher cost. -Material selection is key when it comes to deck construction costs. Softwoods like Fir, Cedar and Redwood tend to be less expensive than hardwoods and composite products. However we must also consider the life expectancy and the amount of maintenance required for each product. The life expectancy of a Cedar deck is about 15 years, while some composite products offer 25 year warranties. The upfront cost of a wood deck may be less, but the long term cost may be higher. Building a new deck is an exciting addition with many considerations. At SDCR we offer aluminum, glass and stainless cable railings for wooden and composite decks. If you have questions about a railing system for your new deck, give us a call at 844-277-7327 or visit the quote request page today!  

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About SDCR

San Diego Cable Railings provides high quality cable railing systems to contractors and DIY installers nationwide. Our products are made in house based in San Diego, CA. – built to withstand harsh conditions and coastal environments.

What We Do

Cable Railing
Glass Railing
Gates and Fencing
Hardware Products
Installation Services

Contact Info

1365 N JOHNSON AVE #117 EL CAJON, CA 92020 (Visits by appointment only)

Shop@sandiegocablerailings.com

(888) 389-0003

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